Bandeira do município de Pedra Azul, MG, Brasil.
Bandeira do município de Pedra Azul, MG, Brasil. — Photo: Prefeitura municipal | Public domain

Pedra Azul

Municipalities in Minas GeraisGemstones and miningBrazil
4 min read

The largest cut aquamarine on Earth stands in a case at the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History in Washington: a 10,363-carat obelisk of sea-green and blue light, carved from a rough crystal that weighed something like a hundred pounds. It is called the Dom Pedro, and it came out of the ground here — at Pedra Azul, in the Jequitinhonha valley of northeastern Minas Gerais, mined in the late 1980s. The town that produced it has about 24,000 residents, a semi-arid climate, and a name it only settled on in 1943.

Born From a Fire That Burned Sixty Days

Settlement here begins with a catastrophe. In 1833 a great wildfire swept the area and burned for roughly sixty days, and in the scorched ground behind it the caatinga — Brazil's thorny dry scrub — came surging back. The first settlers named their village for exactly that: Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Boca da Caatinga, Our Lady of the Conception at the Mouth of the Caatinga. The name kept changing as the place did. It became the Distrito de Caatingas in 1880, then Fortaleza in 1892. Emancipation as a municipality came in 1912. Not until 1943, on a suggestion from a resident named Nelson de Faria, did it become Pedra Azul — blue stone — the name that stuck.

The Bamburro

In 1927, prospectors hit what the Portuguese of the mining country calls a bamburro — a sudden rich strike — of aquamarine at the Fazenda Laranjeira. Aquamarine is beryl, the same mineral family as emerald, tinted by traces of iron into every shade from pale sky to deep sea. Minas Gerais has yielded a great deal of it, but nothing anywhere has matched what Pedra Azul eventually gave up. The rough Dom Pedro crystal was so large that it was broken before it could be studied whole; from the surviving piece a single gem was cut, and no larger faceted aquamarine has been produced since. The stone left Brazil. The mines and the memory did not.

Which Pedra Azul?

There is another Pedra Azul in Brazil, and it is the one most people picture: the striking granite peak in Espírito Santo, an hour or two inland from Vitória, that turns blue in certain light. This is not that place. This Pedra Azul is a working municipality of 1,595 square kilometres in the Jequitinhonha, its seat at about 617 metres, roughly 720 kilometres from Belo Horizonte. It does have its own rocks, and they are worth the confusion. Climbers and rappellers work the outcrops around town — Pedra Cabeça Torta, Pedra Forno de Bolo, Pedra da Conceição, Pedra da Montanha, Pedra da Rocinha. One of them is treated locally as the symbol of the city, and the view from the top runs a long way across dry country.

A Hub, of Sorts

Brazilian statisticians use Pedra Azul as an organising unit, which tells you something about its standing out here. The town gives its name to a microregion that gathers Cachoeira de Pajeú, Comercinho, Itaobim, Medina, and Pedra Azul itself into one bureaucratic bundle inside the wider Jequitinhonha mesoregion. That is the kind of importance a place earns by being the one with the banks, the hospital beds, and the highway connection. There are ten health clinics and a hospital with 66 beds. There were two banking agencies as of 2006, and 58 tractors spread across the farms — roughly one for every ten of them. Numbers that modest are easy to read past. In a valley this dry and this far from the coast, they add up to a town other towns depend on.

Life in the Jequitinhonha

The Jequitinhonha valley has a reputation in Brazil for hardship, and Pedra Azul carries some of it. The municipality's human development index stood at 0.660 at the 2000 measurement, ranking it 709th of the 853 municipalities in Minas Gerais. The 2022 census recorded 24,410 residents. Cattle raising and farming drive the economy: around 570 farms occupy the rural area with roughly 1,700 people working in agriculture, and the crops are bananas, coffee, passion fruit, beans, manioc, and corn. The heat and the dry are the constants — the thermometer has recorded 38.6 °C and, at the other extreme, 5.6 °C on a cold August morning in 1994. Rain, when it comes, comes hard; 134.2 millimetres fell in a single day in December 2021. The town sits 16 kilometres east of the BR-116, the Rio–Salvador highway, with the Bahia border 49 kilometres to the northeast.

From the Air

Pedra Azul lies at 16.01°S, 41.30°W, its seat at roughly 617 m elevation in the Jequitinhonha valley of northeastern Minas Gerais. The BR-116 runs 16 km west of town and is the clearest navigational feature in the region, threading north–south toward the Bahia border 49 km northeast. Nearest major airports are Glauber Rocha Airport at Vitória da Conquista (SBVC) to the northeast and Teófilo Otoni (SNTO) to the south; Belo Horizonte/Confins (SBCF) is roughly 720 km southwest. Recommended viewing altitude is 5,000–8,000 ft AGL, low enough to pick out the isolated granite outcrops — Pedra Cabeça Torta and its neighbours — standing out of the caatinga around the town. Skies are typically clear and visibility long in the dry season; expect scattered heavy convection and rapid buildups in the December–February rains.