Rhinoceroses at the zoo "Knuthenborg Safaripark" located on the Danish island Lolland.
Rhinoceroses at the zoo "Knuthenborg Safaripark" located on the Danish island Lolland. — Photo: Hubertus45 | CC BY-SA 3.0

Knuthenborg Safaripark

denmarklollandwildlifeparksmuseumsgardensfamily
4 min read

Fourteen specimens of Archaeopteryx are known to science - the feathered Jurassic creature that sits closest to the join between dinosaurs and birds. One of them is on Lolland, a flat, quiet, beet-growing island in southeastern Denmark, in a museum that opened in 2023 a short walk from a paddock of giraffes. Knuthenborg is that sort of place. It is northern Europe's largest safari park, and it is also a Victorian botanical collection, a family estate held by the same house since the eighteenth century, and now one of the better fossil collections in the Nordic countries - all of it inside a wall built in 1867 out of stones fished up from the sea.

A Wall of Sea Stones

The land was once the medieval manor of Årsmarke, at one point the largest private estate in Denmark, and in 1714 it became the seat of the new county of Knuthenborg. What turned it into a defined place was one man's project. Eggert Christoffer Knuth, born in 1838, had a wall thrown up around the property in 1867 - 7.4 kilometres of it, built from stones fished out of the Smålandsfarvandet, the shallow water between Lolland and Zealand. He died in 1874, at thirty-six, six years after starting it. The wall is still the park's boundary, and everything that has happened inside it since has happened within a line drawn by a young man dredging rocks out of the Baltic.

Mr Milner's Trees

Knuth hired the English landscape architect Edward Milner, whose plans were completed in 1870, and gave him a brief that had nothing to do with animals. Milner laid out a landscape park for a world collection of rare plants. Several hundred species of exotic shrubs and trees went into the ground, along with the rhododendrons that still draw people here in late spring, when the flowering is the point of the visit. The arboretum survived the decline of the great estates because it was formally protected under a preservation order in 1926, which is why a Victorian plant collection is still standing on an island where almost everything else became farmland. Walking it now, the giraffes are the novelty and the trees are the older achievement.

From Seventy Deer to a Safari Park

The animals arrived in stages. In 1950 an enclosed zoological garden was laid out beside Svanesøen, the swan lake, stocked with seventy deer. The safari park proper opened in 1969 under Adam W. Knuth, and the collection has grown across the decades to more than forty species with a strong emphasis on mammals. The park covers 660 hectares in total, of which 400 are the safari park itself, threaded with 23 kilometres of road. Siberian tigers hold what is described as the largest enclosure for the species in Europe. There are walk-through enclosures where lemurs and red-necked wallabies move around visitors rather than behind them, and pens of West African dwarf goats where children can touch an animal if the animal agrees.

Animals With Nowhere Else to Go

Some of Knuthenborg's residents are here because other places stopped being possible. When Denmark banned wild animals in circuses, the country's last four circus elephants - Djungla, Jenny, Ramboline and Sarah - were bought out of the industry and given a 14-hectare enclosure here; African bush elephants had never been kept at the park before. Lions arrived in 2022, moved out of a Ukrainian zoo because of the Russian invasion. Neither species was part of the plan. Both are now part of the park, which has quietly become the place in this corner of Europe that takes the animals when the arrangement they were born into collapses.

Big Joe and the Lokiceratops

The Museum of Evolution opened in 2023 and is not a gift-shop dinosaur display. Its centrepiece is Big Joe, an Allosaurus about 9 metres long and more than 95 percent complete, among the largest and most intact ever found. Alongside it: a Torosaurus named Adam carrying the largest known dinosaur skull, the holotype specimen of Lokiceratops - the individual fossil by which the entire species is defined - dinosaur eggs, Dimetrodon and other Permian animals, the giant ground sloth Eremotherium, and the Archaeopteryx. Outside, the Dinosaur Forest sets full-scale models among the trees. The rest of the park is aggressively family-shaped: Denmark's largest nature playground, a water playground, trampolines, a family roller coaster and a water coaster. Around 310,000 people came in 2019, up from 223,000 in 2012. It closes for the winter, which on Lolland is a reasonable decision for everyone involved.

From the Air

54.821°N, 11.504°E, on the north coast of Lolland between Maribo and Bandholm. From 1,500 to 3,000 feet the park is a striking anomaly: a large irregular block of mature woodland and open pasture, sharply bounded by the 7.4 km wall, dropped into a landscape of rectangular arable fields. Look for Svanesøen and the 23 km of pale internal road threading the enclosures, with the Smålandsfarvandet a few kilometres north. Lolland Falster Airport at Maribo (EKMB) is about 14 km south; Copenhagen Kastrup (EKCH) roughly 115 km northeast. Terrain is essentially flat; low cloud and coastal drizzle are the usual limits on visibility.

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